the surf has been pumping.. yeah i can make that call.. the pass, as circus like as it is was still pumping, broken, as quiet chilled and clean or onshore it may be is pumping, whites is self explanitorily (if thats a word) is pumping, tallows with no wind and a $%£@ load of dolphins.. is yep... pumping.. well maybe not sooo pumping this morning but the funnest, cleanest and prettiest waves iv seen in ages... yay for Byron Bay your killing it, lucky surf cats like myself are revelling in it and tucking in for a sick little view, riding a shortboard again and loving some low rail time.. putting on a whole lot of zinc, skating in the carpark, photoshoots on the beach, sneaky photos appearing on in Byron Bay today that make me look like a shore fire kook sickguns. Yeah i can say im pretty stoked and been surfing my bum off for the last week, gotta get as many waves as i can before a month long stint in Broome on a boat cruising the Kimberelys..
so.. lovers
what does this mean?
no internet
no phone (cept a sat phone maybe)
no blogging and
specially no logging...
back in W.A
heading for the desert
im coming back to Byron for sure not a doubt in my mind.
I was very close to leaving a couple of times.. i was like narrr fu^%4 this place its got no f%$3ing waves, touros and protentious wankers..
quite the contrary
if you are reading this girls you are my inspiration and my reason for being in this town
and after the sessions iv been having lately and not having to put on a stupid red apron at Fundies Cafe you wont be able to keep me away from this town.
Long story...
but a whole lot of love.
Im gonna make me some cash on them tourist boats, check out some awsome Aboriginal sacred sights, perve on some whales, eat fresh barra mate, snorkle and swim, spy on crocs, jump in some dem water holes, drink a hell of a lot of beer with rhysy boy on deck... and on my off time with a hell of a lot of cash and more to come im gonna head to;
The Bluff and Gnarloo
Indo (boat trip)
NZ Raggers mate satisfy the goof
S.A Cactus Witzig homestead
Yallingup yeah bears
and of course little Bryon..
im coming back i pinky swear xxx
